Sable's Alex Renshaw Competes In Angostura Cocktail Challenge

By Lorna Juett in Food on Oct 23, 2012 9:00PM

Today’s modern bartenders, including Sable’s Alex Renshaw, know that bitters are the salt and pepper of a cocktail, as just a few drops can enhance sweet and sour flavors and give balance to a boozy creation. Because of their versatility, bitters are a constant presence in cocktails, made all the more modern with artisanal bitters coming from all over town, by companies dedicated to the craft (like Bittercube) and by bartenders themselves. So how does the Godfather of bitters, Angostura, compete in a nearly saturated market? By courting hip, young bartenders to compete for bitters-based supremacy in a world-wide cocktail contest.

Thursday's Angostura Cocktail Challenge was the culmination of a nation-wide search for the best bartender to represent the USA in Trinidad at the Angostura Global Cocktail Challenge finals. The winner of the USA challenge also wins $5,000. The three finalists had 7 minutes to create 2 cocktails, each with at least 5 dashes of Angostura Bitters. They were judged not only on the flavor of the cocktails, but on their ability to entertain the crowd, and make two tasty cocktails under the 7 minute mark.

Chicago’s own Alex Renshaw put on a great show, and was clearly the hometown favorite. He unfortunately lost points for exceeding his allotted 7 minutes, and his cocktails, including the tiki-inspired Straight to Voicemail, weren’t strong enough to overcome that deficit.

My personal favorite cocktail of the evening, The Steelpan Swizzle, came from Sean Frederick of Boston’s Citizen Public House. His presentation also included some Aviary-style histrionics, using smoke burned into an overturned glass to warm up the glass and to bring out the elements of the smoky lapsang souchong syrup that was subtly present in the cocktail.

However, bragging rights, the big check, and the opportunity to compete in Trinidad, went to J.R. Sarkus of RM Seafood in Las Vegas, with his original creations, a whiskey- and St. Germain-based The Long Road Home, and a Fernet and rum spiked The Third Voyage.

Since guests were treated to pre-batched cocktails, and not freshly mixed ones, it’s safe to say our tasting experience was not on par with what the judges received. One can only assume the hand-crafted cocktails had more subtlety and complexity than what was served to the masses. Regardless, the event was full of the energy of competition, and even the runners-up seemed to go home happy... or at least tipsy on Angostura bitters cocktails.